Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Parasites-How Do You Know if You Have Worms and What to Do About Them

!: Parasites-How Do You Know if You Have Worms and What to Do About Them

I had a client a while back who had this question for me: "I've noticed that I've been getting menstrual cramps the last few months and I don't usually have them. Can you tell me what you think it is?"

It was determined, strangely or not so strangely enough, that the cause of those menstrual cramps was parasites! And this isn't the only disease caused, in part, by parasites. Read on...

I recommend for her, and for you, that you worm both your pets and yourselves about twice a year.

I've tried natural wormers over the years--actually LOTS of natural wormers such as: garlic, cloves, black walnut, cilantro, wormwood, pumpkin seeds, pomegranate, diatomaceous earth, Rascal, Zymex, Vermifuge, several other natural wormer formulas and homeopathics, but nothing seems that effective. I've even tried the Hulda Clarke "Zapper" (which does not work by the way, because the voltage of the thing is not strong enough to penetrate the fecal material within the bowels--save your money by not purchasing or building one!) I am sorry to report (as a naturopath) that studies show these herbal treatments are only about 20% effective. The Certified Organic organization says when all else fails, use ivermectin (which is not organic in any way), but have you seen the list of side affects to that particular product? Three pages long!

I will say that when a client comes to me, I ask them if they have any cravings. One sure sign they are "wormy" is when they tell me they crave cloves. Clove oil has been shown to penetrate the egg and kill it where the other herbs only kill the adults. Herbs that kill parasites are often found in herbal cancer formulas because parasites are often a core cause of that particular disease.

One reason why I push so much for routine worming is that the medical field often misses this diagnosis--especially if you don't have a history of traveling outside the United States where parasites are often a big issue. I love working in my garden and often I am an open-mouth breather when I'm working up the soil. We also live in a windy area and dirt from the wheat and grass fields is often in the air. I try to wash my hands frequently, but anyone who works in the dirt knows that it's nearly impossible to keep from getting it on you.

Another reason why I stay on top of the worm situation is that worms carry viruses into our body. Some of these viruses can cause cancer, Parkinson's, multiple sclerosis, and a host of other horrid diseases.

In my opinion, the safest, cheapest, easiest, most effective way to worm yourself and your pets of the most common worms (roundworms--also called strongyles, thread worms, pinworms, ascarids) is to go to the local feed store and get a bottle of horse or dog roundwormer--Equi-Phar, ProTal, Strongid-T, and Nemex are all trade names of Pyrantel Pamoate. I say this because when you ask your doctor for a wormer, they usually tell you there is no need for you to be wormed. Make sure it says Pyrantel Pamoate on the label and nothing else added. Combination wormers are not always needed and not always safe.

Dosage: Use the dose of 5-10 mg/kilogram bodyweight (about 1 ml/5 to 10 pounds of a 50mg/ml solution) of bodyweight for dogs and humans and 1 ½ ml/5 to 10 pounds for cats. One teaspoon is 5 ml or cc (ml and cc are the same unit of volume). If you are not good at math, you'll want to double-check that you are taking the correct dosage. Although this wormer is so safe that you can take 40 times the amount with no harmful side effects, you don't want to under dose. And, "If a little is good, a LOT is not necessary better." The most common side effect is nausea so take this product with something on your stomach like a small meal or a few crackers.

One dose is all it takes, but you may have to give a second dose 7-10 days after the first dose for the initial worming or if the wormload is quite large. I use this once a year now for myself as I have had a history of heart palpitations (another symptom associated with parasites.) The worms will be dead within 20 minutes. You won't feel anything and should have no side-effects. You won't see anything pass into the toilet as a general rule but if you are wondering about what is passing, a photo often helps. Often people will mistake intestinal shreds for flatworms or tapeworms and undigested food for parasites. This wormer will not kill those types of parasties. Occasionally I see a pet get nauseated with an overdose, but in 30 years, I have never seen any other side-effect.

Will store-bought wormer work the same? No. Many stores still carry Piperazine wormer which has been so overused that it is no longer an effective wormer. Piperazine is often marketed as a "monthly" wormer in the pet sections. I once saw a litter of eight puppies in full seizure who had just been wormed that week with piperazine. Imagine eight cute little Golden Retreiver puppies laying on their sides shaking. It was horrifying! I immediately wormed them with Pyrantel and the worms just flowed out their little rectums and the seizures stopped within 20 minutes. It was incredible to watch!

If the product you purchase contains a tapeworm medicine (like clorpyriphos which is an organophosphate wormer), that may cause some serious side affects. Never use these store bought wormers on pregnant animals. The animal's guts can contract so strongly to pass the worms that they can rupture their uterus and die. Always get tapeworm medicine from your doctor or veterinarian as we carry much safer brands than the grocery or feed stores do. Tobacco plug is also not safe. Don't use it.

How do you get worms? We pick up worms from some of the things we eat, from the dirt, and from the dust we breathe in. Eating dirt is a sign of iron deficiency. We should talk if you are doing that... I got pin worms when I was a little girl by eating a mud pie (my friend said she'd give me a nickel if I did it!) Pinworms are the equivalent of cat and dog roundworms, only they are a different species of worm so are not passed from us to them and vice-versa. See more on that below.

Most adults (pets and people) have enough enzymes in their mouths to break down most of the eggs coming in through our mouths and nose, our stomach acids break down even more, but some eggs get by both of those back-up systems where they hatch, find a home, and grow into adults within about 10-14 days in our small intestine. After 14 days, these adult parasites are producing more eggs--millions of them in their lifetime. Yuk!

We see worms most commonly in baby animals and humans because their salivary enzymes are not as strong, the hydrochloric stomach acids have not been totally developed yet, and because they have oral fixations and put lots of things into their mouths--they ingest more dirt than adults. Their immune systems cannot keep up with that. The "load" (number of worms) gets so great in the small intestine that it spills over into the large intestine and into the stomach. This is why it is so common to see babies either vomit worms or poop them out. Because adults have a better immune system, the load is controlled and the worms like the environment of the small intestine, so that is where they stay. We may still have worms, but it is not as evident as it was when we were young children (or pets under a year of age.)

How do you know if you should take a wormer?

Signs of roundworms include, fevers, cough, wheezing, stomach problems, diarrhea, constipation, abdominal cramping, appendicitis, gas, bloating, increased cramping (menstrual), heart palpitations, pain in the lower right quadrant that comes and goes (spasms in the ileocecal valve), itchy anus', dry lusterless hair with split ends, seizures, pica appetite (often for sugar), clear mucous strands in the stool (yes you should be looking at it each time you go! And yes, I will ask you what it looks like if you ever consult with me.) People and animals with lots of parasites also have big bellies and lots of diameter below the belly button caused from the intestines losing their tone. Most times worms can be diagnosed by looking at the bowel contents under a microscope or doing a blood test, but not always. Protozooal parasites such as giardia are often missed.

Can I get roundworms and tapeworms from my pets?

Good question, and I get that a lot. If you worm your pets regularly, you won't have this problem. Dog and cat worms are different than most human worms. There are only a few species of worms that are zoonotic (passed from your dogs and cats to you)--one of those is Toxoplasma cati, which is passed to the human from cat feces and causes blindness in children. But, the Pyrantel Pamoate kills that and if you clean the litter box every day, the probability of that being passed is nearly nil. Giardia lamblia, an intestinal protozoal parasite can be passed to you through your pet as well, but mostly humans get Giardia from drinking contaminated water or eating contaminated lettuce or water chestnuts. Mange is NOT passed from animals to humans and neither are head lice or public lice. Tapeworms are not transferred from dogs and cats to people (but they are from fish and some farm animals). Tapeworms are treated with different drugs than roundworms.

Ring worm is not actually a parasitic worm. It is really a fungus and that, too, can be passed from your pets to you. We have fantastic homeopathic drops for that, but keeping the area scrubbed and applying iodine to it can help. Also keeping your immune system and that of your pet healthy with good high-quality foods helps immensely.

Well, that's worms in a nutshell (or in this case, an intestine!) Appetizing, eh?


Parasites-How Do You Know if You Have Worms and What to Do About Them

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Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Bird Houses - How To Get Birds To Nest In Yours

!: Bird Houses - How To Get Birds To Nest In Yours

Get out the lemonade and bug zapper because summer is right around the corner. Taking time during those hot days and warm summer nights to relax and enjoy life is a must in today's hectic hustle and bustle. If you're a bird lover that may mean coming home, sitting on your porch overlooking your lush green garden and watching the birds frolic and play. Many of us are the same and we've placed bird houses in our gardens to try and coax a feathered family to take up residence but to no avail. There are some simple things that will keep a bird from nesting in your bird house. They may seem simple but many of us overlook these key elements.

First, in order for birds to make your garden a home they'll need a steady supply of water. This could be in the form of a pond, stream or as simple as putting a bird bath in the garden. Keep the bird bath water fresh or they may want to move out. Birds will nest where water is abundant and not too far away.

Second, in order to better your odds you can supply them with a food source near the bird house as this will keep them coming back and eventually take home in your offering. Make sure the food source is not able to be accessed by squirrels, mice or other animals that may eat the food and scare the little ones. There are many vendors that sell squirrel proof bird feeders for your garden and they work quite well.

Third and most important, try to place the bird house in an area where there is very little human traffic and safe from all predators. This is most important because the birds want to feel safe and if the house is hung by a children's play set or by a sidewalk that has people walking by daily then the chances are the birds will not feel safe and move on. Make sure natural predators can't get to the house such as cats, snakes, or any other natural predator you have in your area.

Lastly, face the bird house with the back facing the wind. For instance, if the wind normally comes from the west you'll want to set it up with the entrance facing east. This will allow the birds to stay dry when it rains and allow them to stay warm on those cooler spring nights. If at all possible set the bird house up on the opposite side of your home from the wind direction.

Try these simple tips and you will have great results. Remember birds want to feel safe and secure just like we do. If there's food water and security around, they will gladly move into your garden neighborhood.


Bird Houses - How To Get Birds To Nest In Yours

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Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Rat Zapper in Comparison With Other Methods of Rodent Control

!: Rat Zapper in Comparison With Other Methods of Rodent Control

The conventional age-old methods of rodent control created almost as much hassle and botheration as the vermin itself. One typical problem in controlling rat infestation is the terrific rate at which rats breed and multiply. If the crisis is not resolved in the initial stages then it most likely gets out of regulation. Homes, restaurants, farms, ranches, bakeries, warehouses have all suffered in various degrees the hazards of a rat invasion and tried to manage it with poisons and rat traps with little or no success. The Rat Zapper happens to be an incidental invention but in terms of its effectiveness and benefits it soon became the most potent weapon in the human fight-back.

The use of poisons in pest control is common enough though it has several obvious disadvantages. Rat poison is generally mixed with food that is tempting to the rats and is left in places, which are most likely to be haunted. As such, it is also accessible to pets in the house and even children and poses a serious threat to their safety. So if something that is being used for protection against rodents becomes a danger itself, the objective is defeated.

The Rat Zapper is highly technical in approach and simply kills the rat through a jolt of electric current the moment it comes in contact with it. Also, in case of poisons it sometimes takes a long wait to start effect and often the dead rat is not detectable for sometime and the stench has to be suffered before it leads to the corpse. With the Rat Zapper it is not even necessary to come in contact with the dead creature. A blinking red light signals a kill, which can then be emptied directly into the trash can.

The Snap mousetrap and rattrap or the glue board are very awkward to use and so brutal that the creatures are deprived of any trace of kindness. Rodent control is necessary but essential humanity may not be lost in the process. The Rat Zapper is an easy and civilized way of killing both rats and mice without leaving a distressing blood and amputation trail behind. Also, the snap traps are rodent specific and a single device does not work for every type.

The Rat Zapper uses ordinary dry pet food as bait and normally it is a matter of time before the first victim walks in. Rats often manage to release the bait from an ordinary trap getting a free meal for itself but the Rat Zapper does not allow it to get such a pleasure. It is therefore more effective and may also be monitored from a distance when attached to the Rat Tale.

For larger establishments the Rat Zapper Battle Station is beneficial in that it has the mechanism to monitor several Rat Zappers from a single location without checking out each individually. The standard rattraps and rat poisons have indeed been the only option in the past and rodent control was not conceivable without these. But as with everything else in devices, an improvement has been accepted and welcomed. The Rat Zapper has advanced the rat control process a wide step.


Rat Zapper in Comparison With Other Methods of Rodent Control

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Saturday, November 12, 2011

Rat Zapper

!: Rat Zapper

When mice, rats and other rodents get into your house, it's a problem. They can invade your pantry, ruin your furniture and worse of all, spread diseases to you and your family. Conventional traps can be dangerous and often ineffective, but fortunately, there is a new solution to and age old problem. Rat Zapper is an electronic trap capable of eliminating mice, rats and other rodents, without the limitations of conventional traps. More importantly, the product is safe to use around you and your family.

Rat Zapper uses metal plates and a battery system inside a cage to deliver a lethal dose of electricity to the intruding rodent. When the rodent enters the trap, it completes the circuit, which triggers the shock. The method is quick and effective as well as more humane than traditional spring-loaded traps. In addition, cleaning up is made easier because shocking the rodent leaves behind no blood and guts. In fact, a rear latch allows you to dump the dead rodent into the trash without even seeing it. The product also features a remote alert system that notifies you of when the trap has been activated. This feature is very useful when placing traps in hard to reach areas. Instead of undergoing the painstaking process of checking the trap repeatedly, you can simply wait for the remote monitor to light up.

In addition to the convenience, Rat Zapper is also safer than other methods and traps. Children and pets can't fit inside the trap, and therefore, cannot be injured by it. In addition, the dose of electricity administered is not lethal to larger animals and humans. Spring-loaded traps designed for rats produce a significant amount of force. These traps are capable of crushing a rat's spine and back, which also means that they are capable of breaking your finger. Children and pets that come in contact with these traps can also be injured. Although effective, poison bait is dangerous to children and pets as well.

For those seeking a humane option for rodent elimination, consider that Rat Zapper is the quickest method for killing these unwanted intruders. Other lethal traps can simply injure the rodent or trap them while they bleed to death or even starve. Even cage traps designed for catch and release can become torture devices of starvation when they are not checked frequently. Whether you own a home, ranch or business, Rat Zapper will provide you with convenient, safe results.

Follow this link Rat Zapper for more info.


Rat Zapper

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Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Mice Repellers and Humane Mouse Traps

!: Mice Repellers and Humane Mouse Traps

Do the new mice repellers and humane mouse traps that are now being sold really offer better solutions to an old problem? Absolutely! They make the old spring traps seem like little torture racks for rodents. I'm sure that most of us have gone through this situation - you bait an old style mouse trap one evening and wake up the next day to the mouse or rat trapped, but not quite dead. Very unpleasant! But the new devices make that a thing of the past.

Mice repellers

Mice repellers are available in spray or granular applications. They work by using odors that mice find repulsive, like peppermint, or predator odors that they fear. Most of these solutions are made for both indoor and outdoor use and are safe to use around children and pets. These products certainly do work, but in order for them to be effective you have to make sure that your whole home has 'coverage', or the pests will simply find the way in where there's no repellent.

The first time you use a repellent follow the manufacturer's suggestions. They certainly try to be factual about the square footage their product will cover, but keep in mind that there are a lot of variables to consider. In the end it will probably take a little trial and error on your part to get it just right for your home.

Electronic Mouse Repellers

Electronic Mouse Repellers are the other type of humane mouse deterrent. These gadgets work by emitting sound waves that rodents want to avoid, but aren't noticeable to humans and pets. If you decide to go with this solution be sure to get a repeller that constantly fluctuates the frequency and tone.

Why?

Because it's been found that rodents can adapt to any consistent noise over time - a continuous tone won't work as a long term solution.

Some electronic mice repellers even claim to rid your home of other pests such as cockroaches, spiders, scorpions, and other bugs.

Humane Mouse Traps

Humane mouse traps come in two distinct catagories. The first kind simply catches the mouse, while the second kind delivers an electrical shock, killing on contact.

The modern 'humane' mouse trap is a basic cage with doors that lock shut when the bait inside (placed on a sensitive trigger) is tampered with. But now that you've caught your mouse what are you going to do with it? The most obvious answer seems to be taking it to the countryside and releasing it. Another solution is your city's Animal Control Department. In most cities they do offer 'pest disposal'.

Now, is the electric mouse trap really humane? I can only say that it's a lot more humane than the old spring traps. These traps are made to work instantly, and are designed so that curious kids and nosy pets are safe from a shock. Most are battery operated and made so that disposal is a hands-off process.

So don't you think it's time to get rid of that old mouse trap and try something new? While there's no doubt that these pests have to go, there's just no longer any reason at all for them to suffer in the process.

Better mouse traps have been built!


Mice Repellers and Humane Mouse Traps

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